The short answer
Artificial turf is yarn tufted into a backing. Three numbers tell you most of what you need: face weight (the yarn you walk on), pile height, and how fast the backing drains. Blade shape, thatch and infill decide how it looks, feels and handles heat and pets.
The yarn
Turf yarn is nylon, polyethylene (the most common) or polypropylene. Polyethylene quality climbs a carbon-chain ladder: a longer chain means a stronger, more UV-resistant, more resilient blade. Monofilament blades look most like living grass; slit-film blades are webbed, very durable, and hold infill in place.
Blade shapes are a trade-off, not a ladder
C blades stand up to heavy traffic. V blades have a stiff center spine that resists matting. W and wave blades spread heat and light for a natural look. Flat and diamond blades feel softest and look most real but wear fastest in traffic. Most good products blend two or three shapes.
The numbers that matter
| Spec | What it tells you | Typical landscape range |
|---|---|---|
| Face weight | How much yarn is above the backing: the real density | about 47 to 72 oz |
| Total weight | Face plus backing and coatings, always the bigger number | about 53 to 125 oz |
| Pile height | Blade length. Shorter for pets and greens | about 1.35 to 2 in (pet about 1 to 1.5 in) |
| Gauge | Spacing between stitch rows | 3/8 in on nearly all landscape turf |
| Drainage | How fast water passes through the backing | varies widely by backing type |
Ask for both weights. A quote that shows only total weight hides the comparison, because a heavy backing can make sparse turf weigh like dense turf. Face weight is what you are paying for. Sparse turf also shows dark backing between the stitch rows.
Thatch, backing and infill
Thatch is the short, curly tan fiber at the base of the pile. It mimics the dead layer of a real lawn and props the blades up. Polyurethane backings are tougher and drain better than latex. Some backings drain through the whole surface instead of punched holes, and some carry antimicrobial protection built in at manufacture.
Infill is the sand or mineral brushed between the blades. It weights the turf and holds the blades up. Plain silica is the ballast; for pets, a zeolite layer such as ZeoFill traps the compound that becomes ammonia, and an antimicrobial coated sand such as Envirofill keeps the infill itself from becoming the problem. Cooling infills such as TCool help only while they are damp.
Questions in this section.
- How fast does an artificial turf putting green roll?
- Does artificial turf contain PFAS or lead? Is it safe for kids and pets?
- How fast should artificial turf drain (inches per hour)?
- Latex vs polyurethane vs flow-through backings: what's the real difference?
- Silica, zeolite, coated sand: what infill should I actually use?
- What do turf blade shapes (C, W, S, flat/oval) actually do?
- What infill stops pet odor — and how does it work?
- What is face weight, and what number should I look for?
- What is thatch in artificial turf, and why does it matter?
- What is tuft bind / tensile strength — and why does it matter if I have dogs?
- What pile height is right — lawns vs pet areas vs putting greens?
- Why does some turf look fake and shiny — and some looks real?
- Will artificial turf fade in the Florida sun? What does "UV resistant" actually mean?